The Rise of Luxury Groceries

Artwork by Emma Szabo

While New Yorkers have had to grapple with an affordability crisis over the past decade, the city has seen a rise in luxury grocery stores. As well as being vital to our existence, food has always been an essential part of human social life, serving as a symbol of celebration and community. The latest social media and lifestyle marketing trends, however, show that food has also become a status symbol and the ultimate luxury item.  There isn't a more significant culinary trend than the emergence of trad wives on social media, with influencers like Ballerina Farm and Nara Smith cooking everything from scratch. Even bread, which used to be a staple on most grocery lists, has become a symbol of status and wealth. Prices have tripled, and the world is telling you that you need to make your own sourdough to be healthy.. New York exclusives, such as Butterfield Market, Happier Grocery, Citarella, Union Market, and the soon-to-open Meadow Lane, have had the internet abuzz as options for those who don’t have the time to milk their own cow for probiotic yogurt. 

Still, no one has a bigger hold on the luxury grocery industry than Erewhon. Erewhon is a California-only brand that gained traction for its $20 smoothies, co-created with celebrities and influencers such as Hailey Bieber, Bella Hadid, Sophia Richie, and Shay Mitchell. New Yorkers have been speculating, dreaming, and TikToking about Erewhon's potential crossing of the Hudson for years. And, guess what? It’s finally coming!....for a little less than the median income. The miniature shop will operate more as a tonic bar, serving juices and smoothies to the club Kith Ivy, a private members-only establishment with dark wood and green marble décor that also includes paddle courts and a Cafe Mogador. However, that hasn't dissuaded fans. I mean, who wouldn't want to spend $36K of their hard-earned money to join a fancy padel club, plus an additional $7K in annual dues? Fortunately, non-members can still order Erewhon's coveted smoothies and juices in limited quantities through Postmates or Uber Eats.

Food's transformation into a luxury good fits with the larger cultural shift to “luxurify” even the most basic commodities in order to fit a certain “lifestyle”. One essential and fundamental need in life is food. However, food has become a luxury for many and a necessity that is increasingly out of reach due to global inflation and the looming threat of a recession in the United States. What were once aspirational luxury items, such as handbags and sunglasses, are now competing with "everyday luxuries," such as a “designer” croissant sold by the Dior café. The grocery store is clearly more than just a place to shop; it has now been transformed into a public arena to perform wealth and further stratify the classes.

Jett Jenkins

Artwork by Emma Szabo